Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Simple Ham Radio Antennas. A 80-10 meter Inverted vee antenna. Post #287.

One of the easiest and most cost effective antennas you can build is the 80-10 meter inverted v, a variant of the HF Doublet (horizontal dipole).  The antenna requires a single support mast, two smaller poles to tie off the "drooping" elements, and 450 ohm ladder line/300 ohm television twin lead connected to a balanced "tuner" to work all amateur radio bands between 80 and 10 meters (3.500 MHz to 29.999 MHz).  If you don't have a balanced "tuner", run the ladder line or twinlead to a 4:1 current balun and use a short length of 50 ohm coaxial cable to connect the balun to your "tuner."

During the course of moving into our new home in the Puna District of Hawaii Island (we're moving slowly, since we're still working part time), I found a nice spot for a mast in the middle of our planned garden in back of the garage.  Since our home is on 1 acre of agricultural land, I have plenty of room for antennas, including loops, slopers, verticals, horizontal dipoles, and the inverted v.

Materials:

One 33-ft/10.06 meters MFJ telescoping fiberglass mast.

One "Ladder Lock" connector to attach the ladder line to each antenna element.

75-ft/22.86 meters of 450 ohm ladder line.

Six feet of RG-8X coaxial cable with UHF connectors.

Two pvc support poles to tie off the drooping antenna elements. I had two, 10-ft/3.04 meters pieces of schedule 40, 2-inch/5.08 cm diameter pvc pipe sections in the garage.

Two ceramic end insulators to tie off the ends of the antenna elements.

One 5-ft/1.52 meters wooden stake to support the fiberglass mast.

Two 5-ft/1.52 meters wooden stakes to support the tie off posts for the inverted v.

One W9INN 4:1 balun.

One transceiver.  For this project, I used my trusty Ten-Tec Argosy II.

One Heathkit Dummy load.

One low-pass filter.

One Drake MN-4 antenna transmatch.

One "counterpoise bundle" for the Drake MN-4 transmatch.

Nylon ties and vinyl electrical tape.

Basic tools, including soldering iron, wire cutters, screwdrivers, etc.

One hundred 135-ft/41.15 meters of #12 AWG house wire.  I had a spool left over from a wiring project at the new house.  No sense wasting valuable copper.

Twenty-five ft/7.62 meters of nylon rope.

Assembly:

The antenna was built in the garage, because all of my tools and electrical outlets are located there.

The telescoping fiberglass mast was extended to its full length (33-ft/10.06 meters) and the "Ladder Lock" device was attached to the eyelet ring at the top of the mast.

The wire was cut to my chosen frequency of 3.500 MHz using the formula 468/f(MHz)=L(ft). According to the formula, the total length of the antenna would be 133.71-ft/40.76 meters. I rounded off the length to 134-ft/40.76 meters.  Each antenna segment would then be 67-ft/20.42 meters. You may want to cut your wire elements a bit longer to allow for swr adjustments.

I threaded the ladder line through the "Ladder Lock" and soldered each antenna segment to its respective leg of the ladder line. I covered the soldered joint with several layers of vinyl electrical tape.

At the free end of each antenna segment, I attached a ceramic insulator and a small piece of nylon rope to tie off the segment to a support post.

The ladder line was run down the fiberglass mast to a point 16-ft/4.87 meters above ground level. The ladder line was secured to the mast with nylon ties.

The mast was then hoisted onto its wooden stake with the two antenna elements being left free for the moment.

The free ends of the antenna elements were attached to their tie off posts (the 10-ft/3.04 meters pvc pipes). Each tie off post was hoisted into position.  The antenna was adjusted for a uniform "v" shape.

The ladder line was lead to the W9INN balun attached to the garage wall (about 8-ft/2.43 meters above ground level).  Ten feet/3.04 meters of RG-8X went from the balun to the window patch panel.  Inside the shack, a 6-ft/1.82 meters piece of RG-8X ran from the patch panel to the Drake MN-4 transmatch.  The Argosy II, dummy load, and the low pass filter were connected to the Drake MN-4 transmatch with 3-ft/0.91 meters lengths of RG-8X coaxial cable with UHF connectors.  Finally, a "counterpoise bundle" was attached to the ground lug of the Drake MN-4 transmatch.

Initial results:

With the Drake MN-4 in the line, I was able to get a 1:1 match on 80, 40, 30, 20, 15, and 10 meters.  I was running a full 50 watts from the Argosy II.  Results on 80, 40, 30, 20 and 15 meters were excellent with several 59 (SSB) and many 599 (CW) contacts made in Hawaii and on the U.S. mainland. The ten meter band was very noisy at my location and no contacts were made.  Eighty and Forty meters were best in the early evening hours, while 30, 20, and 15 were most usable during the early afternoon to early evening hours.

If you want a versatile, simple antenna that covers 80 through 10 meters, please consider the easily made inverted v.  If you have two high supports (trees, masts, or other structures), you might get a slightly better signal with a horizontal dipole erected at a height of 40 to 60 ft/12.19 to 18.29 meters above ground level.  Even though the apex of my mast was only 33-ft/10.06 meters above the ground, the antenna did very well on both local and DX stations.

This was an enjoyable antenna to build.  Give it a try...you might be surprised how well it works.

References:

http://www.arrl.org/hf-wire.
http://www.hamuniverse.com/htdoublet.html.
http://www.radioworks.com/nhpant.html.
http://www.dxzone.com/dx22153/80-40-20-meter-dipoleantenna.html.
http://www.balundesigns.com/OCFAntenna.pdf.

For updated amateur radio news and happenings, please check out the news feeds provided at the top of this post. These feeds are updated throughout the day.

You can follow our blog community with a free email subscription or by tapping into our blog RSS feed.

Until next time,

Russ Roberts (KH6JRM).

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Simple Ham Radio Antennas. A 5-band vertical dipole. Post #286

How would you like to have a 5-band vertical antenna that covers 20, 17, 15, 12, and 10 meters that requires no ground radial system and can be built from materials from your junk box or from the nearest hardware store?

You can, if you build a simple Vertical Dipole and feed it with 300 ohm television twin lead or 450 ohm ladder line terminated into a balanced antenna "tuner." If your "tuner" has no provision for balanced feeders, you can insert the twin lead/ladder lead into a 4:1 current balun and use a short piece of 50 ohm coaxial cable to connect the antenna to your "tuner."

I got this idea from an article in "Simple and Fun Antennas for Hams" by Chuck Hutchinson (K8CH) and Dean Straw (N6BV).  Hutchinson and Straw conducted a series of antenna experiments using 15 meter vertical dipoles in a space-restricted urban area. The results of their work were impressive, so I decided to use some of their suggestions and make my own version of this versatile vertical antenna suitable for limited real estate.

Like Hutchinson and Straw, I decided to pattern my design for the 15 meter phone band (21.200 Mhz). With 450 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 balun, and my trusty Drake MN-4 antenna transmatch, I could get decent multiband performance from one antenna.  I recently acquired an Elecraft K-3, so I could test the antenna on 17 and 12 meters as well.

MATERIALS:

I found all of my materials in the garage storage room at my new home (under construction) in the Puna District of Hawaii Island.

Feed Line.  I had a spare 50-ft/15.24 meters roll of 450 ohm ladder line.

Antenna "tuner".  My trusty Drake MN-4.

Balun.  I had a spare W9INN 4:1 balun in the shack.

Coaxial cable.  One 3-ft/0.91 meters piece of RG-8X with UHF connectors.  This piece would run from the 4:1 balun to the patch panel in the shack window.  One 10-ft/3.04 meter piece of RG-8X with UHF connectors.  This segment would run from the patch panel to the Drake MN-4 transmatch.

One 33-ft/10.06 meters MFJ telescoping fiberglass mast. This would support the top vertical element and the bottom vertical element.

One "Ladder Lock" center connector to support the center of the vertical dipole and connect each segment to its respective leg of the ladder line.

A nearby tree limb to support the feed line above ground as it leaves the midpoint of the vertical dipole (more on that later).

One 5-ft/1.52 meter wooden garden stake to support the fiberglass mast.

#12 AWG house wire.  Using the general formula for a dipole, 468/f (MHz)=L (ft), and a chosen frequency of 21.200 MHz, the total dipole length before cutting the wire into two equal segments came to 22.07-ft/6.73 meters.  Rounding things off to the nearest foot/meter, each segment of the vertical dipole came out to 11-ft/3.35 meters.

Fifty feet/15.24 meters of nylon rope tied to a fishing sinker. A slingshot was used to shoot the free end of the ladder line over a nearby tree limb to maintain a near 90-degree departure angle from the center of the vertical dipole.

Basic tools, soldering gun, nylon ties, two ceramic insulators, and vinyl electrical tape.

ASSEMBLY:

The vertical dipole was built in the garage car port.  A nearby electrical outlet provided power for the soldering gun.

A ceramic insulator (you could use plastic, teflon, wood, or even glass) was attached to top end of the upper segment and to the bottom end of the lower segment.

The top insulator was secured to the metal loop at the top of the 33-ft/10.06 meter fiberglass mast and the top segment was led down the mast and secured with nylon ties.  The bottom segment was left unattached until I attached the "Ladder Lock" to the mast (approximately 22-ft/6.70 meters above the base of the mast).  

I then soldered both top and bottom elements to their respective legs of the 450 ohm ladder line.  The connection was wrapped with several layers of vinyl electrical tape.  The bottom element was then secured to the mast with nylon ties.  The bottom of the lower vertical element was approximately 11-ft/3.35 meters above the base of the mast.

Once the both antenna elements were attached to the fiberglass mast, I hoisted the mast onto its wooden support stake.  The mast was approximately 33-ft/10.06 meters from a nearby tree.  I was able to shoot the free end of the ladder line over a branch about 20-ft/6.09 meters above ground using a slingshot, nylon rope, and a fishing sinker.  I was able to maintain an almost 90-degree departure angle from the center of the vertical dipole (22-ft/6.70 meters above the base of the mast).  The ladder line was nearly horizontal from the mast to the tree limb. The remaining 17-ft/5.18 meters of ladder line was terminated in the W9INN 4:1 balun.  Coaxial cable (RG-8X) went from the balun to the patch panel (3-ft/0.91 meters).  A 10-ft/3.04 meters length of RG-8X went from the patch panel to the Drake MN-4 transmatch.

Three-foot/0.91 meters pieces of RG-8X connected the Elecraft K3, the Heathkit Dummy Load, and a Low Pass Filter to the Drake MN-4.

I also attached a 5-band "counterpoise bundle" to the ground lug of the Drake transmatch.

INITIAL RESULTS.

With the help of the Drake MN-4 transmatch, I was able to get a 1:1 SWR reading on all amateur bands from 20 to 10 meters.  Twenty meters was fairly "touchy" owing to the short length of the vertical elements, but I was able to get a good match on this band.  The 12, 15, 17, and 10 meter bands were easily adjusted for a 1:1 SWR.

I was able to make both Hawaii and mainland U.S. contacts on all bands except 10 meters, which was very "noisy" in my location.  Fifteen and 17 meters did very well from 1100 to 1700 hrs local time(0100-0700 UTC).  Using my backup solar- charged deep cycle marine battery as a power source, I ran the Elecraft K3 at 10 watts and had no problem establishing contact. CW reports to the mainland U.S. (California) ranged from 559 to 599 and SSB contacts (California) varied between 54 to 57--enough for an enjoyable QSO.

Other than the original purchase of wire from garage sales and a few items collected at the local recycling center, I spent spent no money on this simple antenna project.  Of course, my wallet will be a bit thinner once I replace the ladder line and coax used for this project.  I can't get ladder line on Hawaii Island.  The coax sold locally is not satisfactory. With the possible exception of RG-6 cable, which I sometimes get as "remainders" from the local cable and satellite dish installers, I usually order coax and ladder line  through a mainland U.S. vendor. Don't dismiss RG-6.  With adapters bought from Radio Shack, I can use RG-6 for patch cords and even feed lines for dipoles.  The mismatch (75 ohms vs 50 ohms for ordinary coax) is easily handled by my Drake MN-4.  I also use RG-6 for making matching sections for loops. This was a fun and educational project.

If you have limited space and a little time, you can have a multiband HF antenna that will get you on the air with a respectable signal.  Best of all, you won't need a ground radial system to make this vertical work.

REFERENCES:

Hutchinson, Chuck (K8CH) and Straw, Dean (N6BV).  Simple and Fun Antennas for Hams. ARRL, Newington, CT, 06111. Copyright 2002-2005, First Edition, Second Printing.  Pages 9-1 to 9-9 and 10-1 to 10-4.

You can follow our blog community with a free email subscription or by tapping into the blog RSS feed.

Thanks for joining us today!

Until next time,

Russ (KH6JRM).









Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Simple Ham Radio Antennas. An 80 through 10 meter inverted "L" antenna. Post #285.

Would you like to build a simple, effective antenna covering 80 through 10 meters that won't tax your budget or get strange stares from you neighbors?

How about an easily erected inverted "L" that only requires some house wire, a few insulators, basic tools, a simple fiberglass telescoping mast, a roll of 450 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 current balun, an antenna "tuner", short lengths of 50 ohm coaxial cable, and a few wooden garden stakes?  The inverted "L" is basically a quarter wavelength of wire divided into an 1/8 wavelength vertical segment and a horizontal 1/8 wavelength segment.  Like all verticals, the inverted "L" requires a ground radial system.

This antenna can be built over the course of an afternoon and won't cost you much money.  The antenna will deliver excellent local and DX contacts.

As with all my homebrewed antennas, I try to use materials I have around the house, shack, or garage. The nearest hardware store or home improvement outlet carries most of the materials I need in case I run short of a few items.

Materials:

The antenna will be cut for a resonant frequency of 3.500 MHz.  Using the general formula for a vertical (234/f (MHz)=L (ft), I measured out 67-ft/20.42 meters of #12 AWG house wire.  The actual calculated length was 66.85-ft/20.38 meters.  I just rounded off the number to 67-ft/20.42 meters. I cut four elevated radials to the same length.

One, 33-ft/10.06 meters MFJ fiberglass telescoping mast.

Five, 5-ft/1.53 meters wooden stakes.  One stake would support the fiberglass mast and four would support the rudimentary radial system above ground level.

Six ceramic insulators.  One would be attached to the free end of the inverted "L".  The others would be used to tie off radial wires to pre-positioned wooden support stakes. The remaining insulator would be attached to the top of the mast, so that the horizontal portion of the vertical could be run from the mast apex without damaging the wire.

Fifty-feet/15.24 meters of 450 ohm ladder line.  This would be used as the antenna feed line. When the ladder line is connected to a 4:1 current balun and an antenna transmatch, the antenna would be able to cover all amateur radio bands from 80 meters to 10 meters. Small lengths of RG-8X coaxial cable with UHF connectors would be used to connect the antenna system to the "tuner" and assorted station equipment.
Fifty-feet/15.24 meters of nylon rope would be attached to the free end of the vertical element.  The rope would be shot over a nearby tree limb to create the horizontal portion of the antenna.

Assembly:

The inverted "L" was built on the ground about 35-ft/10.67 meters from the garage/radio room.  A heavy duty electrical cord running from the garage would supply electricity for my soldering gun (Weller type). Thankfully, the day was calm and soldering wasn't a major chore.

I pounded the first support stake into the ground (about 1-ft/0.30 meters deep).  The four remaining wooden stakes were secured in the same way, approximately 70-ft/21.34 meters from the center stake.

I attached a ceramic insulator to the top of the fiberglass mast using wire and nylon cord.  

I secured the bottom of the vertical element to the fiberglass mast at a height of 5-ft/1.53 meters above ground.  The vertical element was run up the mast and passed through the top ceramic insulator.  The vertical element was secured to the mast with nylon ties.  The remaining wire (39-ft/11.89 meters) would serve as the horizontal portion of the inverted "L".  A ceramic insulator was attached to the end of the horizontal portion of the antenna.  Fifty-feet/15.24 meters of nylon rope, weighed down with a fishing sinker, was attached to this insulator.

I hoisted the fiberglass mast onto its support stake.

I then soldered one leg of the 450 ohm ladder line to the vertical element.  Four radial wires, measuring 67-ft/20.42 meters each, were soldered to the other leg of the ladder line.  Each connection was wrapped with several layers of vinyl electrical tape.

Once the mast was in position, I used a slingshot to shoot the nylon rope/horizontal element over a tree branch approximately 45-ft/13.71 meters away from the mast.  The branch was around 35-ft/10.67 meters above ground.  Once I pulled the nylon rope over the tree branch and secured it to a nearby tree stump, I adjusted the top wire so it was almost horizontal in relation to the tip of the mast.  The antenna had 28-ft/8.53 meters of vertical space on the mast and 39-ft/11.89 meters of horizontal spread on the top.

I then secured each of the four slightly elevated radials to its pre-positioned stake.

I ran the 450 ohm ladder line to the 4:1 W9INN current balun mounted on the garage wall, about 8-ft/2.43 meters above ground level.  A 6-ft/1.82 meters piece of RG-8X ran from the balun to the window patch panel.  From the patch panel, a 10-ft/3.04 meters length of RG-8X ran to the Drake MN-4 "tuner".  Short lengths (3-ft/0.91meters) of RG-8X interconnected the Ten-Tec Argosy II, Dummy Load, and Low-Pass Filter to the Drake MN-4.  To be on the safe side, I connected a "counterpoise bundle" consisting of quarter wavelength pieces of wire for each band to the ground lug of the "tuner."

Initial results:

With the Drake MN-4 antenna transmatch in the system, I was able to get a 1:1 SWR across 80, 40, 30, 20, 15, and 10 meters.  I was able to get contacts from both Hawaiian stations and stations on the U.S. mainland. Reception reports varied between 559 and 599 for CW and 55 to 59 for SSB, depending on the band in use and the time of day.  The best daytime bands were 20 and 15 meters.  Forty and 80 meters were fairly good after sunset.  Ten meters was quite noisy and mostly unusable. Most of the time, I used less than 50 watts output for my tests.

For a simple antenna made with available parts, the modified inverted "L" delivered  hours of fun at minimal cost. Since the antenna is positioned in the backyard near the rainforest, it's nearly invisible.

Give an inverted "L" a try.  It could be the antenna you're looking for.

References:

http://www.hamuniverse.com/slopinginvl.html.
http://www.hamuniverse.com/w7lpninvertedl8010.html
http://www.n8sdr.sopmcincy.org/index.php/wire-antennas-that-work.
http://www.antennex.com/preview/archieves/ltv.htm.

You can follow our blog community with a free email subscription or by tapping into the blog RSS feed.

Thanks for joining us today!

Until next time

Russ (KH6JRM).

BK29jx15--along the beautiful Hamakua Coast of Hawaii Island.







Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Simple Ham Radio Antennas. A 20 meter through 10 meter Vertical Dipole Antenna. Post #284.

One of the joys of moving into a bigger home with a decent back yard (1 acre of mixed brush and trees) is the ability to build the wire antennas I've always wanted.  Like many of my fellow amateur radio operators, I've endured HOAs, CC &Rs, and limited space for most of my 37 years as a ham.  I operated fairly well under these circumstances using stealth antennas from "ground hugging" loops to thin random wires stretching to the nearest tree.

Now that my xyl and I are semi-retired, we have to the time to "fix up" our final home in an area conducive to our various hobbies, including gardening, amateur radio, backyard astronomy, and just plain relaxing.  

Over the past few months, I've begun the erection of my "antenna farm" and the building of my radio room in the garage.  There's a lot of work to be done, but it's enjoyable and gives me exercise.

Last Friday, just before the 2014 ARRL Field Day, I completed a new antenna which may be usable for those facing space limitations.  Although I usually prefer half-wave length horizontal dipoles and inverted vees, I decided to try out a "Vertical Dipole" for 20 meters through 10 meters.  The construction seemed fairly simple and the antenna would give me multiband coverage using ladder line, a 4:1 current balun, and my trusty Drake MN-4 transmatch (tuner).
If I really wanted to get fancy, I could cut a matching section of 450 ohm ladder line, connect that to a balun (1:1 or 4:1), and run 50 ohm coaxial cable to a "tuner".

However, I decided to keep things very simple, since the vertical dipole was only an experiment.  Following the advice of Joel R. Hallas (W1ZR) and his article "How Do You Adjust a Non-Resonant Antenna?" in the July 2014 issue of "QST", I left out the matching section entirely, because as Mr. Hallas states, "The whole matching issue can be sidestepped if you run window line all the way back to a wide range tuner near the radio.  The antenna will  receive with the same pattern and gain, but you won't have to fuss with the match at the antenna feed."  Your transmitted pattern will vary, depending on the band of choice.

So, with that advice in hand I began the 20-10 meter vertical dipole project.

MATERIALS:

One 33-ft/10.06 meters MFJ telescoping fiberglass mast.  This would support the upper and lower vertical elements.

One 20-ft/6.09 meters piece of PVC pipe, 2-inches/5.08 cm in diameter.  This mast would support the ladder line coming off the main mast at a point 16.475 ft/5.022 meters above ground.

Two 5-ft/1.52 wooden support stakes.  One stake would support the main mast.  The other would support the PVC pipe.

Sufficient #14 AWG house wire to make the dipole elements. Using the general formula, 468/f (MHz)=L (ft) and a the lowest frequency of use (14.200 MHz), I cut a length of wire measuring 32.95 ft/10.04 meters.  This was divided into two equal parts to form the vertical dipole elements.  Each element was cut to a length of 16.475-ft (16 feet, 5.7 inches)/5.022 meters.

Three ceramic insulators.  One would support the top vertical element; one would serve as the center insulator; and one would anchor the base of the bottom vertical element.

Vinyl electrical tape, nylon ties, basic tools, soldering gun.

Fifty-feet/15.24 meters of 450 ohm ladder line.  This would be the feed line for the antenna.

One W9INN 4:1 current balun.

10 feet/3.04 meters of RG-8X coaxial cable with UHF connectors.

Several 3-ft/0.91 meters pieces of RG-8X coaxial cable with UHF connectors.

One Drake MN-4 antenna transmatch (tuner).

One Ten-Tec Argosy II transceiver with microphone and straight CW key.

One solar-charged deep cycle marine battery for power.

One "counterpoise bundle" consisting of a quarter- wavelength of wire for each band used (20, 15, 10 meters).  The counterpoise would be attached to the ground lug of the Drank MN-4.

ASSEMBLY:

The antenna was made in the garage and erected outside.

First, I cut each dipole element to the proper length (16.475 feet--16 feet, 5.7 inches/5.022 meters).

A ceramic insulator was attached to the top end of the upper element.  A ceramic insulator was attached to the end of the bottom element.

I then threaded each leg of the 450 ohm ladder line through the center insulator and soldered each free end of the antenna elements to its respective leg of the ladder line.  The connections were covered by several layers of vinyl electrical tape.

The completed dipole was taken outside to the mast, which was on the ground approximately 40-ft/12.19 meters from the shack in the garage.  The shorter 20-ft/6.09 meters PVC mast was on the ground, approximately 33-ft/10.06 meters from the main mast.

Next, I attached the vertical dipole and feed line connection to the telescoping fiberglass mast.  The elements were secured with vinyl electrical tape and nylon ties.  I made sure the center insulator with the attached feed line was thoroughly taped and mated with the mast with several nylon ties.

I then hoisted the main fiberglass mast on its pre-positioned wooden stake and led the feed line to the 20-ft/6.09 meters PVC mast on the ground.  The secondary mast was positioned 33-ft/10.06 meters from the main mast.
  Once the ladder line/feed line was secured to the PVC pipe with nylon ties and vinyl electrical tape, I hoisted the PVC mast onto its pre-positioned wooden stake.  The feed line left the main mast at 90 degrees and maintained that angle until it reached the secondary mast.  The feed line sagged a bit, but it was generally a little more than 16-ft/4.87 meters above ground.

The remaining length of the ladder line was fed under the window ledge of the shack and attached to the W9INN 4:1 balun.  A 10-ft/3.04 meters piece of RG-8X with UHF connectors was run from the balun to the Drake MN-4 transmatch.  Short pieces of RG-8X coax interconnected the Argosy II, Heathkit Dummy Load, and a low-pass filter to the Drake MN-4.

Finally, I connected a "counterpoise bundle" to the ground lug of the Drake MN-4.

INITIAL RESULTS:

With the Drake MN-4 in line, I was able to get a 1:1 swr on 20, 15, and 10 meters.  The antenna pattern is omnidirectional. Using approximately 50 watts of power from the old Argosy II, I was able to get some enjoyable contacts on 20 and 15 meters.  Ten meters was quite noisy and no stations were worked.  On 20 and 15 meters, cw contacts ranged from 569 to 599, and on ssb, reports varied between 55 to 59, depending on the time of day.

All told, not a bad day for an antenna made from parts found at home.  If you lack the space for a multiband antenna, try going up with a vertical dipole.

REFERENCES:

Hallas, Joel R. (W1ZR). "How Do You Adjust a Non-Resonant Antenna?" "QST", July 2014, p.55.

http://www/hamuniverse.com/kl7jrverticaldipole.htm.

http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/tis/info/pdf/9106023pdf.

http://www.arrl.org/hf-vertical.

http://www.wolfington.net/articles/dipole.

You can follow our blog community with a free email subscription or by tapping into the blog RSS feed.

Thanks for joining us today!

Until next time,

Russ (KH6JRM).